Puerto Viejo. A small, cozy village on the Caribbean coast of Costa Rica. Reggae from the speakers, sloths in the trees and waves you’re better off admiring from the beach. This was the first stop of our Costa Rica trip. We stayed six days. Then we continued to Tortuguero: a jungle village that you can only reach by boat. A true ‘Let Us Stay For A Day’ recommendation…

This is part 1 of our route. Before you leave, also check your own government’s current travel advice for Costa Rica. Also check out the complete 3 to 4 week Costa Rica itinerary.

From San José to Puerto Viejo

First we take a shuttle from San José to the Caribbean coast of Costa Rica. 93 miles in total. Normally the trip takes about 3.5 to 4 hours, but we got stuck in heavy traffic and took 6.5 hours. The scenery along the way makes up for everything, though. You see tons of palm trees, vines and waterfalls. It’s so green here!

Where to stay in San José: we slept at Hotel Casa 69. Great breakfast and a good base. Arrange your transfer from the airport in advance: it’s only a 25-minute drive. For food and drinks, go around the corner to Jardín de Lolita. Ceviche, tacos and our first local beer: Imperial. Cold, light and actually similar to a Heineken, because this is a pilsner too.

What to do in Puerto Viejo

1. Rent a scooter in Puerto Viejo

This is the best way to explore the area. In half an hour you ride to Cahuita in the north or to Manzanillo in the south. Along the way you can stop at every little beach you like.

2. Cahuita National Park (with a guide!)

Our highlight on the Caribbean coast of Costa Rica. Cahuita is one of the national parks of Costa Rica managed by SINAC. We took a guide and that was the best decision in hindsight, because he sees everything. Eduardo listens to the sounds in the forest and immediately knows which branch an animal is hiding on. Amazing. We saw countless sloths, toucans, tropical birds, raccoons, monkeys, crabs, butterflies and even a bright yellow snake.

👉 With a guide through Cahuita National Park? These tours score highly:

3. Manzanillo

There is also a second nature reserve, a bit further south. At the entrance a pelican tries over and over, in vain, to catch a fish. Clearly he still needs to take a diving course. We spotted little crabs and even a sloth that was climbing. That is rare: they usually hang in the same favorite spot for a week. Note: the hike is tough, though. For us an hour and a half was more than enough.

4. Jaguar Rescue Center

This is also an impressive project. Years ago, villagers brought an injured young jaguar to two retired biologists who had bought a piece of land here. They decided to take care of him. Soon all the sick and injured animals from the area were brought to them. Now around 1,200 animals are taken in every year, with the goal of releasing them back into the wild as soon as possible. Note: despite the name you won’t see any jaguars or other wild cats here, but mainly sloths, monkeys, birds and other animals that are being cared for.

5. Beaches near Puerto Viejo: Playa Cocles and Playa Negra

Playa Cocles is the most beautiful beach near Puerto Viejo. So grab some beach chairs and an Imperial and relax. But note: the waves here are insanely high. In most places on the Caribbean coast of Costa Rica swimming is not wise. We were once rescued from the sea by a fishing boat in Bali because of the strong current, so we are extra careful.

Playa Negra near Cahuita is, as the name says, a black beach. Sit down there with a hamburger at the Reggae Bar, for example, with Bob Marley blasting from the speakers.

6. Bribri

There is also Bribri, a local village in the mountains. Not very special, but the locals are amazed when two tourists arrive on a scooter. Everyone greets you just as warmly. And at the bakery they simply speak English, luckily, because we couldn’t get by with our Spanish.

Where to stay in Puerto Viejo

Hotel Boutique Indalo – in our opinion the place to be. Adults only, so wonderfully quiet. The owner also sets out the coffee early in the morning. And for two days a sloth with a baby sat in the tree above us by the pool. What a start to the day, so you’re instantly awake.

Eating in Puerto Viejo

• A local soda – chicken, rice, beans, salad and fried plantain with a Caribbean sauce. Really tasty and affordable.
• Green Jaguar – nice atmosphere and good cocktails.
• The local bakery – fresh croissants for your scooter trip.
• An Argentinian restaurant along the road – this is where we spotted our first sloth!

👉 Popular tours around Puerto Viejo:

Tortuguero: the jungle by boat

Tortuguero is a small village in the middle of the jungle, reachable only by boat. There is one long street with small hotels and fun restaurants. We drove to Pavona by car and took the boat from there. Along the way we already saw iguanas, white egrets and lots of turtles.

Morning boat safari (highly recommended!)

At 6 am we climb into a small boat for a trip through the tropical rainforest. It’s truly breathtaking. We see many birds, several species of monkeys, three small caimans, iguanas and big parrots. This is the tour you really have to do in Tortuguero.

Watch this reel of Tortuguero on Instagram

👉 Boat trips and tours in Tortuguero with a guide:

Night tour

You get a bright flashlight and go looking for animals in the dark. We saw a wolf spider, sloths, lots of ants and a few snakes. A decent excursion, but our expectations were higher. Short on time? Then choose the morning safari.

Where to stay and eat in Tortuguero

• Budda Home – nice guesthouse where you can book the tours right away.
• Local soda – rice & beans with pork, salad and fried plantain.
• Note: everything closes around 9 pm here. So early to bed, but that works out well with the 5 am alarm.

From Tortuguero to La Fortuna

At 6:40 am you sail back through the jungle. At low water it can sometimes be difficult to get through. Then you pick up the car again in Pavona. After that it’s still a long drive to La Fortuna, the start of part 2 of our route: Arenal & Monteverde.

More hotspots on the Caribbean coast of Costa Rica

In our Google Maps we keep a list of all our favorite places in Costa Rica. Besides the tips above, you’ll find even more Caribbean restaurants, breakfast spots and bakeries in and around Puerto Viejo here. Click a name to open the place directly in Google Maps.

Caribbean food in Puerto Viejo

• La Nena – Caribbean cuisine.
• Soda Shekina – Caribbean soda.
• Restaurante Riquísimo – Caribbean cuisine.
• Cocomar Comida Caribeña – Caribbean cuisine.
• McCloud’s Munchies – Caribbean food.
• Morían Soda Caribeña – Caribbean soda.
• DelRita Patty – Caribbean patties to go.
• GigiO Restaurant – Caribbean restaurant.

Restaurants & bars

• SAGE @ Playa 506 – fusion restaurant.
• Nanku – special culinary experience.
• Restaurant Café Viejo – Italian.
• El Pampa Asador – grill restaurant.
• El Rincón Porteño – Argentinian.
• Tamara – grill restaurant.
• Nacho Mama’s – Mexican.
• Arepas Empanadas Colombianas – Colombian arepas and empanadas.
• Sushi Wave by Cariblue – sushi.
• The Point – smash burgers.
• SoulSurfer – burgers.
• Tasty Waves Cantina – restaurant.
• Restaurante Green View – restaurant.
• Puerto Pirata Tiki Bar – tiki bar and restaurant.

Breakfast, coffee & bakeries

• The Brunch Club – brunch.
• Bread & Chocolate – breakfast and lunch.
• De Gustibus Bakery – bakery.
• bread what what – bakery and lunch.
• Grow – vegetarian.
• Calipso – coffee bar.
• Café Rico – coffee.

📱 Stay connected: an Airalo eSIM for Costa Rica works as soon as you land, so you can skip the SIM card hassle.

Practical tips for Puerto Viejo and the Caribbean coast of Costa Rica

• How many days? 4 nights in Puerto Viejo and 2 nights in Tortuguero is perfect.
• Transportation: shuttle from San José, scooter on location.
• Swimming: be careful, the waves are wild and the current is strong.
• Jet lag: you’re awake at 5 am here anyway. So go spot some animals!
• Guides: always take a guide in Cahuita, it’s a real plus.

Frequently asked questions about the Caribbean coast of Costa Rica

From Puerto Viejo on to the interior

In short: the Caribbean coast of Costa Rica was a fantastic start to our trip. Next come the Arenal volcano and the Monteverde cloud forest. Continue reading in Arenal & Monteverde or go back to the complete Costa Rica itinerary. Less time? Then check our route for Costa Rica in 2 weeks. Looking for turtles, sloths and monkeys? Also read our guide to spotting wildlife in Costa Rica.

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