Chiang Mai is the cultural heart of northern Thailand and one of our favorite places in the country. We spent three days here with Edwin, our regular travel partner. In this guide you’ll read what we did, where we stayed and where to eat well. It is a deeper look at the Chiang Mai stop of our 3-week Thailand itinerary.

Why Chiang Mai?

Chiang Mai has an old town with a moat and city gates, temples, lively markets and food that is reason enough to visit. And within an hour you are in the mountains, at rivers and waterfalls. That makes it a place where you find both culture and adventure.

Things to do in Chiang Mai

The Loy Krathong festival and Yi Peng

We were in Chiang Mai during the Loy Krathong festival. Thousands of people set small baskets made of banana leaf afloat on the Ping River, with flowers and a candle inside. We each set one afloat too. The Yi Peng festival takes place on the same days, when lanterns are released into the sky. The whole city is hung with lanterns, all the way to the Iron Bridge.

The festival usually falls in November, sometimes in October. In the coming years it is roughly on these dates (the lunar calendar decides, so it can shift by a day):

• 2026: November 24 and 25
• 2027: November 13 and 14
• 2028: November 1 and 2
• 2029: November 20 and 21

In 2026 there are city festivities in Chiang Mai from November 23 through 25. Book your hotel well in advance, because these days are busy.

A cooking class

Lourens took a cooking class. There are plenty in Chiang Mai; we no longer remember the name of ours. In the morning he rode a scooter with his instructor, a Thai woman, to the local market to buy the ingredients. Because he was lucky and the only student, he could choose the dishes he wanted to learn: pad krapow, tom kha kai, massaman curry and fried banana.

A massage course

On the same day Claudia, separately from Lourens, took lessons at a massage school. There are several courses and she chose traditional Thai massage.

By scooter to Doi Suthep

Doi Suthep is the famous mountain temple above Chiang Mai, about nine miles outside the city. We rented a scooter and rode up the winding mountain road. The ride takes about 30 to 45 minutes and you pass through greenery with nice viewpoints.

At the temple you climb a staircase of 306 steps, guarded by two naga serpents. Prefer not to climb? There is also a tram. At the top you find the golden stupa and a view over Chiang Mai. Make sure your shoulders and knees are covered, and take off your shoes at the temple.

Note: for a scooter you need a valid license and insurance. Read more under Getting to Pai in our itinerary.

👉 Doi Suthep with a guide:

Whitewater rafting in the mountains

Together we went rafting in the mountains near Chiang Mai. What an adventure: the river was very wild, halfway down we lost our guide in the water and Edwin flew overboard too and had to be fished out. We no longer remember which company we went with, so check reviews and safety carefully. Traveling with kids? Ask in advance whether it is suitable for children, or check online.

Elephants, without riding them

Along the riverbed we came across elephants standing around a pool of water, drinking. That was not part of the excursion, it just happened. Quite impressive, because these big animals walked around freely here.

We are against any form of riding elephants. If you want to see elephants up close, choose only a carefully selected center where the animals are treated well and where today’s ethical standards are followed: no rides, no shows and no chains.

👉 You’ll find well-rated cooking classes and ethical elephant sanctuaries here:

The Sunday Walking Street and the night markets

On Sunday evenings Ratchadamnoen Road, starting at Tha Phae Gate, turns into one long market with street food, handicrafts and art from northern Thailand. From Lamphu House you can walk right onto it. Highly recommended. Alcohol is not allowed on Ratchadamnoen Road itself, but you can drink at the bars and restaurants on the side streets.

On Saturday evenings there is a smaller, quieter market on Wualai Road, known for its silver jewelry. You also have the Night Bazaar on Chang Klan Road, mostly for souvenirs, and the Chang Phueak night market for food, with the famous Cowboy Hat Lady among others.

A night out at Zoe in Yellow

Zoe in Yellow is a fun nightlife square in the old town, on Ratvithi Road. There is a lively buzz every evening. You can dance, eat street food, watch sports on the TVs and play pool. We went with Edwin.

Where to stay in Chiang Mai

We stayed at Lamphu House Chiang Mai, a lovely small hotel in the middle of the old center. We had a room by the pool with a seating area outside the door to cool off. On Sundays you can walk straight from the hotel onto the Sunday Walking Street.

A cheaper option is The Warehouse Chiang Mai: we had the room next to the pool, with its own seating area outside the door. Backpackers can pay to spend a day by the pool, but it didn’t bother us and it was mostly fun.

A bit more luxury? Choose Rimping Village, our favorite in Chiang Mai. It is just outside the center, within walking distance of nice restaurants, nightlife and the night market.

Where to eat and drink in Chiang Mai: Recommendations

Chiang Mai is the place for northern Thai dishes, especially khao soi, a creamy coconut curry with noodles.

• Khao Soi Khun Yai by the north gate of the old town: only open around lunchtime, closed on Sundays.
• Huen Phen in the old town for a more extensive Lanna meal.
• Cowboy Hat Lady at the Chang Phueak night market: khao kha moo, stewed pork leg, in the evening.
• Street food at Zoe in Yellow for a bite during a night out.

From Chiang Mai to Pai

From Chiang Mai we continued to Pai. It is about 80 miles through the mountains on a road with 762 curves and the trip takes 3.5 to 4.5 hours. There is no train and no flight. Read all about it in our 3-week itinerary.

Frequently asked questions about Chiang Mai

How many days do you need in Chiang Mai?

We spent three days, which is enough for the highlights, such as the old town, Doi Suthep and a night market. Want more rest, or a cooking class and an excursion on top? Plan four days.

When is Loy Krathong in Chiang Mai?

Usually in November, sometimes in October. See the dates above. The lunar calendar decides, so it can shift by a day.

Do I need a license to rent a scooter in Thailand?

Yes, a valid license and insurance are required. Read more under Getting to Pai in our itinerary.

Can you visit elephants ethically in Chiang Mai?

Yes, but choose carefully. We are against any form of riding elephants. Choose a center without rides, shows and chains, and read recent reviews.