Thailand, the Land of Smiles: we have been several times, and this is the 3-week route we recommend most. You start with culture and nature in the north and finish on a few islands in the south, with one spare day to fill in yourself.

In this post you will read how the route fits together, how to get there and what to do in each place. Want to know more about a destination? We link to our separate posts per place.

Why at least 3 weeks?

Thailand is big and the best places are far apart. With less than 3 weeks you mostly spend your time traveling back and forth, with little time to really be somewhere.

Chiang Mai to Pai alone takes about 3.5 to 4.5 hours by minivan. If you then want to continue to the islands in the south, you first go back to Chiang Mai to fly. With 3 weeks you have room for culture, nature and a few beach days without constantly being in a rush.

Our route in 21 days

The route has 20 planned days and 1 free day, which you spend wherever you fall in love with.

Order	Place	Days	Theme
1	Bangkok	3	Culture and city life
2	Chiang Mai	3	Culture
3	Pai	3	Nature
4	Ao Nang and Railay Beach	4	Beach and limestone cliffs
5	Koh Phi Phi (or Koh Lanta)	3	Islands
6	Koh Lipe	3	Islands
7	Bangkok	1	Heading home
8	Flexible day	1	Your favorite place

The route is flexible: want one more day in Pai or longer on the islands? Simply add the extra day there.

Flying to Bangkok

From Amsterdam you can fly direct to Bangkok with KLM and EVA Air. Thai Airways also seems to fly direct from Schiphol again, but we did not fly with them ourselves. Find the perfect flight for your dates on Skyscanner or Google Flights.

Looking for a cheaper option? Also check prices from Brussels Airport or Düsseldorf Airport.

Our favorite is EVA Air: good food, reliable (we have never had a delay) and plenty of legroom. EVA does not fly every day, so check the flight days in time.

Bangkok (3 days)

You land in Bangkok and are immediately in the middle of the bustle: temples, street food, Chinatown at night and rooftop bars with views over the river. Three days is enough for the highlights and for real city life.

• What we did: In Bangkok we ran into Kees van der Spek, known from the Dutch TV show Oplichters in het Buitenland (about scams abroad). He was there with his son to film a new episode and gave us a few tips on which scams to avoid in Bangkok.
• Where to stay: Want something special? Pick lebua at State Tower, the hotel from the movie The Hangover. The breakfast buffet is fantastic and from the Sirocco skybar you get an amazing sunset view over Bangkok. A cocktail there is far too expensive, but you are clearly paying for the view. Looking for something small in the center? Then Nanda Heritage Hotel is our tip: small pool, Khao San Road within walking distance and plenty of big malls nearby. Perfect for some last-day shopping at BKK Shopping Mall.
• Eating and drinking: Bangkok is a paradise for Thai food, from street stalls to Michelin stars. Recommendations: Raan Jay Fai in the old town (street food with a Michelin star, reservations are tricky), Thipsamai for a classic pad thai and Yaowarat (Chinatown), where you eat from stall to stall in the evening.
  
  Into cocktails? Bangkok is known across Asia as the cocktail capital, with many bars on the Asia’s 50 Best Bars list. Speakeasy recommendations: Rabbit Hole in Thonglor (behind an unassuming wooden door), Q&A Bar near Asoke (behind an unmarked door), Opium Bar in Chinatown (above restaurant Potong) and Lennon’s in the Rosewood Hotel (new at number 7 in Asia in 2026). For a livelier night: Bar Us (number 6 in 2026) and Vesper in Silom, a household name for years. Book ahead at the popular bars and check the opening hours.
• Activities: We recommend a bike tour with Co van Kessel, the first bike tours in Bangkok, started by a Dutchman. You cycle through the narrow alleys of Chinatown and through Thonburi, the part of the city most visitors never see. The classic 3-hour bike tour is rated 4.8 out of 5 from 1,510 reviews on GetYourGuide. Prefer the evening? Then there is the Bangkok by Night cycling tour with a street food meal (4.9 from 75 reviews).
• Getting to Chiang Mai: we flew with AirAsia, the fastest option. The train or night bus also works, but we like a bit more comfort.

👉 Tours and activities in Bangkok:

👉 Read more about Bangkok, including bike tours, cocktail bars and street food, in our Bangkok guide.

Chiang Mai (3 days)

Chiang Mai is the cultural heart of the north. We came here together with Edwin, our regular travel partner. We were there during the Loy Krathong festival, an annual event where thousands of people float small banana-leaf baskets on the Ping River. All of us floated a basket too.

Around the same days Chiang Mai hosts the Yi Peng festival, when lanterns (the “balloons”) are released into the sky. The festival usually falls in November, sometimes in October. The coming years it takes place roughly on these dates (the lunar calendar decides, so it can shift by a day): 2026 on 24 and 25 November, 2027 on 13 and 14 November, 2028 on 1 and 2 November and 2029 on 20 and 21 November. In 2026 there are city festivities in Chiang Mai from 23 to 25 November.

• What we did: Lourens took a cooking class (there are many, we no longer remember the name of ours). In the morning he rode on the scooter with his instructor, a Thai lady, to the local market to buy the ingredients. Because he was lucky and the only student that day, he could choose which dishes to learn: Pad Krapow, Tom Kha Kai, Massaman Curry and fried banana. On the same day Claudia, separately from Lourens, took lessons at a massage school. There are several courses and she chose traditional Thai massage.
  
  Together we went rafting in the mountains near Chiang Mai. What an adventure: the river was wild, we lost our guide in the water halfway down and Edwin also flew overboard and had to be fished out. Along the riverbed we came across elephants drinking around a pool of water. Quite impressive, because these huge animals were roaming freely. Traveling with kids? Ask beforehand whether it is suitable for children, or check online.
  
  You can also visit beautiful temples and rent a scooter to explore the surroundings (mind your license and insurance, see Getting to Pai below).
• Where to stay: We stayed at Lamphu House Chiang Mai, a lovely small hotel in the middle of the old town. We had a room by the pool with a seating area outside the door to cool down. On Sundays you can walk straight from the hotel onto the Sunday Market: highly recommended. A cheaper option is The Warehouse Chiang Mai: we had the room next to the pool, with its own seating area outside the door. Backpackers can pay for a day at the pool, but we were not bothered and it was mostly fun. A bit more luxury? Go for Rimping Village, our favorite in Chiang Mai. It is just outside the center, within walking distance of nice restaurants, nightlife and the night market.
• Eating and drinking: Chiang Mai is the place for northern Thai food, especially khao soi, a creamy coconut curry with noodles. Recommendations: Khao Soi Khun Yai near the north gate of the old town (only open around lunchtime, closed on Sundays), Huen Phen in the old town for a bigger Lanna meal and in the evening the famous Cowboy Hat Lady (khao kha moo, braised pork leg) at the Chang Phueak night market.
• Activities: Want to take a cooking class too? The authentic cooking class with market and farm visit is a good choice (4.9 from almost 5,000 reviews on GetYourGuide). Love animals? Choose an ethical elephant sanctuary, where you feed and watch elephants without riding them. The elephant sanctuary and waterfall group tour is rated 4.9 from over 6,000 reviews. Prefer half a day? Look at the ethical elephant sanctuary and waterfall (half day) (4.9 from 782 reviews).
• Getting to Pai: it is about 130 km through the mountains on a road with 762 curves and you are on the road for 3.5 to 4.5 hours. There is no train and no flight. Many travelers do it on a scooter (read: motorbike), and the rental company can even deliver your luggage to your address in Pai. Keep in mind that many accidents happen. If you have no international license and no motorcycle license, you have a big problem and your travel insurance will probably not cover anything. We chose an Uber and so passed all the beautiful viewpoints. Our driver needed a break now and then. We would have a coffee together, he would have a cigarette with Claudia and we stretched our legs at a nice viewpoint. We were very lucky with our driver!

👉 Tours and activities in Chiang Mai:

👉 Read more about Chiang Mai, including Loy Krathong, Doi Suthep and the night markets, in our Chiang Mai guide.

Pai (3 days)

Pai lies in the mountains of northern Thailand. The road there has about 762 curves, so sit in the front of the minivan if you get carsick easily. Three days gives you room so the travel day to the south does not feel like lost time.

• What we did: Every evening we walked along Pai Walking Street, with nice food stalls and stands with original souvenirs. It is the perfect place to try all kinds of street food. We also visited the hot springs, but we were not hugely impressed. There are nicer places in the world to visit pools like that. Do include Pai Canyon. If you have ever been to the Grand Canyon in America, this is clearly the miniature of the miniature version. In the early morning there is a good chance you will meet monks along the road, on their way to the temple. This monk happened to be relaxing on a bench. You can also go tubing in Pai: you float down the river in a big inner tube, a fun activity.
• Where to stay: We stayed at Family House Zen Boutique Resort, just outside the center on the other side of the river. There used to be only a wooden suspension bridge over the water, which was regularly washed away in the rainy season. Now there is a concrete bridge, so you can be sure to reach the center. The pool is lovely and so is the breakfast, although we often skipped it because of the many nice places to eat in the village center.
• Eating and drinking: Recommendations: Two Sisters Restaurant for local food (Thai and Burmese dishes, with mountain views upstairs), Baan Pizza if you fancy a good pizza and Witching Well near the Walking Street, a fairytale restaurant with witch decor and a courtyard with a well. Come early to Witching Well for a spot and bring cash.
• Activities: Want to explore the area around Pai without a scooter? Then this half-day tour from Pai is a good option: you visit seven places, including the bamboo bridge and a waterfall, and end with sunset at Pai Canyon (4.7 from 76 reviews on GetYourGuide).
• Getting to Ao Nang: you travel back to Chiang Mai (minivan, 3.5 to 4.5 hours) and fly from there to Krabi. There are 7 direct flights per week (Thai AirAsia and Bangkok Airways), so plan your departure day around a direct flight. A flight via Bangkok is possible too, but it takes much longer. From Krabi airport we took a taxi to Ao Nang.

👉 Tours and activities in Pai:

👉 Read more about Pai, including the Walking Street, Pai Canyon and tubing, in our Pai guide.

Ao Nang and Railay Beach (4 days)

This is where the beach part of the trip begins. Ao Nang is the base and Railay Beach, with its limestone cliffs, is close by. Railay can only be reached by boat: the longtail boat from Ao Nang takes 15 to 30 minutes. Pay in cash and bring small change.

• Where to stay: In Ao Nang we stayed at Hula Hula Resort. It is about 15 minutes from the boulevard, but the hotel takes you there for free by tuk-tuk. We had a room with pool access: straight from the room into the water and then to the pool bar. On Railay we stayed at Railay Phutawan Resort, perhaps the most beautiful hotel of our trip through Thailand. You have a view of the limestone rocks, there are many monkeys in the trees around the pool and we even saw a large monitor lizard. The hotel is on a hill, so you have to climb, but every step and extra sweat patch is worth it.
• Eating and drinking: Ao Nang has many touristy restaurants, but there are also nice local spots in between. Recommendations: D&E’s Jungle Kitchen (small, run by a Thai family) and Ton Ma Yom Thai Food, a tip on a side street. In the evening Ao Nang has a real reggae vibe, with lots of little bars where the Bob Marley level is high and live bands that get your feet off the floor. Recommendations for the evening: Roots Rock Reggae Bar (live music and a fire show at 11 pm), Reggae Town (live music almost every night), Boogie Bar (live music in high season) and Last Fisherman, a bar with your feet in the sand.
• Activities: From Ao Nang you can book day trips to the small islands off the coast. The best seller is the premium 4-island tour by longtail boat with lunch (4.6 from over 6,400 reviews). Prefer a speedboat? Look at the 4-island tour by speedboat with lunch (4.5 from 319 reviews). Want to go to James Bond Island? Then there is a tour by longtail boat and kayak (4.2 from 389 reviews). That is a long day of 8 to 9 hours, and the island itself is mostly crowded.
• Getting to Koh Phi Phi: we took the speedboat from Ao Nang.

👉 Tours and activities in Ao Nang:

👉 Read more about Ao Nang and Railay, including hotels, nightlife and island tours, in our Ao Nang and Railay guide.

Koh Phi Phi (3 days)

Koh Phi Phi is the first island of the trip and home to Maya Bay, the bay with turquoise water between steep cliffs. Looking for more peace and quiet? Then Koh Lanta is the alternative: a lovely island to rent a scooter, a lot quieter in the evening and with beautiful nature. You do have to like the hustle of Phi Phi.

• What we did: On Koh Phi Phi we mostly relaxed and spent our days on the beach or by the pool. For Maya Bay we wanted to leave as early as possible, before the big groups arrive. So we went looking in Phi Phi harbor for a fisherman on his boat and asked him how early we could leave in the morning. He immediately offered to take us himself. We left just after sunrise and had the beach at Maya Bay completely to ourselves. On the way back we saw just how many tourists arrive on the island later in the day. It was a bit cheaper than booking online, and you can definitely haggle.
• Where to stay: We stayed at Phi Phi CoCo Beach Resort. We could only book this hotel through Agoda. The resort was on the beach and just outside the crowds, with lovely little bungalows. In the distance we heard music from the nightlife every evening.
• Eating and drinking: Local food is really the tastiest, and Phi Phi has many Thai restaurants. Recommendations: Papaya Restaurant in Ton Sai (Thai and Indian, big portions), Tonsai Seafood right on the beach and Blue Lagune, known for its pad thai with shrimp.
• Activities: From Koh Phi Phi itself you can head out to Maya Bay. Well rated are the half-day longtail tour to Maya Bay with snorkeling (4.6 from 666 reviews) and the private longtail boat tour to Maya Bay and Pileh Lagoon (4.8 from almost 1,930 reviews). Go as early as possible, because Maya Bay gets a lot busier later in the day.
• Getting to Koh Lipe: we took the speedboat here too.

👉 Tours and activities in Koh Phi Phi:

Koh Lipe (3 days)

Koh Lipe is the last island on the route, far in the south, close to the border with Malaysia. It is a small island with a well-known Walking Street and sandy beaches.

We took the speedboat from Koh Phi Phi, a crossing of about 4 to 4.5 hours. That is only possible when the sea is calm, and it was a rough ride. If you get seasick, plan a spare day for the weather. The speedboat does not run all year, so check the current timetable.

• What we did: On Koh Lipe too we mostly relaxed, with days on the beach or by the pool.
• Where to stay: We stayed at AKIRA Lipe Resort, a fantastic resort on the beach. There is a pool with a sea view and a pool bar with tasty cocktails. It is right next to the harbor: the staff pick you up when you arrive on the island by speedboat and carry your suitcases to the room.
• Eating and drinking: Here too the local food is the tastiest, and on and around the Walking Street there are many Thai restaurants. Recommendations: Nee Papaya (Thai and barbecue), Papaya Mom and the small Tonkow Restaurant.
• Activities: From Koh Lipe you can go snorkeling by longtail boat around the small islands nearby, in and around the national park. Well rated are Program A (6 hours, small group, 4.7 from 681 reviews) and Program B to the outer islands (7 hours, 4.7 from 272 reviews).

👉 Tours and activities in Koh Lipe:

Back to Bangkok (1 day) and your free day

From Koh Lipe back to Bangkok we went via Hat Yai. Koh Lipe has no airport of its own, so you first take the ferry and the minivan to Hat Yai (3.5 to 4.5 hours) and then fly about 1.5 hours to Bangkok. The boats usually leave before 1 pm, so your day starts early.

We did not take the boat back to Ao Nang, because whether it runs depends on the sea.

The last day in Bangkok is the day before your flight home. That leaves you with 1 day to spare: that one is yours. Go back to the place you fell in love with most, or add an extra day in Pai or on the islands.

Practical tips and frequently asked questions

• Pay in cash on Railay: you pay for the longtail boat from Ao Nang in cash.
• Plan spare time for the sea: the speedboat to Koh Lipe only runs when the sea is calm. Traveling with people who get seasick? Allow extra time or take another route.
• Check the flight days: both EVA Air to Bangkok and the direct flight Chiang Mai–Krabi do not fly every day.

How long should I stay in Thailand at minimum? We recommend at least 3 weeks.

How do I fly from Amsterdam to Bangkok? Direct with KLM or EVA Air. Compare flights on Skyscanner or Google Flights.

How do I get from Koh Lipe back to Bangkok? Via Hat Yai: ferry and minivan to Hat Yai and then a short flight to Bangkok.

When is the best time to go? We often stayed in Thailand in November or March. Those are usually months with plenty of dry days. November falls just before the high season in December, and hotel prices are usually lower then.

About the links in this post: we sometimes use affiliate links, for example for activities via GetYourGuide and for hotels you can book through a booking site such as Agoda. If you book through such a link, we receive a small commission. It costs you nothing extra.