Arenal and Monteverde: Volcano & Cloud Forest (2026)
First from the jungle to the volcano. In La Fortuna we sleep at the foot of Arenal, the best-known volcano in Costa Rica. Then we wind through the mountains to Monteverde: a fresh mountain town among the cloud forests, full of hummingbirds and good coffee. Arenal and Monteverde: two completely different sides of Costa Rica. A true ‘Let Us Stay For A Day’ recommendation…
This is part 2 of our route. You’ll find more inspiration on the official tourism site Visit Costa Rica. Also check out the complete 3 to 4 week Costa Rica itinerary or read part 1: the Caribbean coast first.
La Fortuna: living at the foot of Arenal
Slowly it finally appears on the horizon: Arenal. Since 2010 the volcano has no longer really been active. Let’s hope it stays that way, because we slept right underneath it. From the terrace of our little house we also looked straight at this monster. What a view.
Watch this reel of La Fortuna on Instagram
What to do in La Fortuna
1. La Fortuna Waterfall – a must
In our opinion this is the highlight of La Fortuna and Arenal. First you walk down 530 steps. And yes, you have to climb back up afterward. At the bottom you can take a refreshing dip, but expect ice-cold water. On the way back we also spotted a big snake in a tree.
2. Arenal Hanging Bridges – a toss-up
These are hanging bridges through the rainforest. Sounds amazing, but it was a letdown for us. $40 per person, paved paths and little wildlife. From our balcony we saw more animals: an agouti, hummingbirds and lots of special birds.
3. Relax by the pool
With Arenal in the background and a cold Imperial in your hand, for example. In short: the perfect combination.
👉 Popular tours in La Fortuna and around Arenal:
Where to stay in La Fortuna
Hotel Roca Negra del Arenal – lovely little houses with a terrace and a view of the volcano. Pool, lots of birds in the garden and breakfast for about $9. Simple, but still fine.
Eating in La Fortuna
- Soda Víquez – highly recommended for lunch. You get a lot of food for little money here. Order the batido de guanábana (a white drink with ice) and arroz con leche (rice pudding) for dessert.
- El Mariachi – Mexican cuisine with traditional tacos with fish or meat. Also fairly priced by Costa Rican standards.
Driving from Arenal to Monteverde
As the crow flies, Arenal and Monteverde are only a little over 15 miles apart. But because of the big lake and the mountains you drive almost 62 miles and are on the road for about 3.5 hours. No punishment, because the view is breathtaking. When the mist lifts, you can still see the volcano in the distance. So stop at a bakery along the way and have a cup of coffee. The coffee in Costa Rica is generally very good, which makes sense, because it comes from the region itself.
🚗 Rental car: compare prices for a rental car in Costa Rica with Economybookings.
After Arenal: Monteverde and the cloud forest
In the mountain village the temperature then drops considerably. The sweaters I thought I wouldn’t need came in handy after all. So bring warm clothes if you combine Arenal and Monteverde.
What to do in Monteverde, close to Arenal
1. Coffee and chocolate tour
In Monteverde we did a tour with Don Juan Tours. You taste coffee, chocolate and sugarcane, including a splash of local moonshine. A lovely start to a fresh morning.
2. Hummingbird Café
Dozens of hummingbirds fly back and forth here. Claudia went hunting for the super-fast little birds with her telephoto lens. It took quite a bit of patience, but the photos turned out brilliant.
3. Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve
This is a cloud forest high in the mountains above Monteverde, and a lot cooler than at Arenal. When the wind blows hard, you feel the mist and droplets even when the sun is shining. Take the short trail if you have little time.
4. Ficus La Raíz
In Monteverde you’ll find a tree that has let its roots grow like a bridge over a small stream. Very special, and you only pay a $2 donation. Budget tip!
5. Birdwatching from your porch
In Monteverde you don’t have to look far. From our lodge we saw hummingbirds, and one bird was more beautiful than the next. At our travel companions’ place, white-nosed coatis even ran around the grounds. We kept searching for toucans and the quetzal, a rare bird of the cloud forests. Unfortunately, they didn’t show up here.
👉 With a guide through Monteverde: cloud forest, coffee and a night tour:
Where to stay in Monteverde
Tucan Tico Lodge – three small houses on a small property at the edge of the forest. With a kitchen, so you can cook for yourself too. In the evening, watch the birds fly by from the terrace with a beer.
La Casa de la Montaña – where our travel companions stayed. Nice place, although one evening they did find a scorpion in the bathroom.
Eating in Monteverde
- Orchid Coffee Shop – great lunch, extensive menu, good coffee and good service.
- Tortillas Food & Drink – fairly priced, good service and good food.
- Cafe Cappuccino – for a quick hamburger in the village.
- Restaurante Thomas & Thiago – make a reservation, because it’s often full. The tuna steak was top. But the espresso was weak filter coffee and the tiramisu was dramatic. Any Italian would have walked out immediately.
More hotspots in Arenal & Monteverde
In our Google Maps we keep a list of all our favorite places in Costa Rica. Besides the tips above, you’ll find even more sodas, coffee spots and activities around La Fortuna and Monteverde here. Click a name to open the place directly in Google Maps.
La Fortuna & Arenal
- El Chollín – free spot in a warm river, popular with locals.
- El Salto – the famous rope swing above the river.
- Arenal Rafting – rafting on the rivers around Arenal.
- North Fields Coffee Tour – coffee and chocolate tour.
- Soda El Turnito – typical Costa Rican soda.
- Soda La Palma – typical Costa Rican soda.
- Soda El Arenal – typical Costa Rican soda.
- Restaurante La Naciente – Latin American cuisine.
- Equus BBQ – grill restaurant.
- Tayakiry Café – coffee.
- Sloffee Coffee Station – coffee.
Monteverde & Santa Elena
- El Trapiche Coffee Shop – coffee bar.
- Ona Café – coffee bar.
- Nativo Restaurant & Coffee – Costa Rican cuisine and coffee.
- Restaurante Delucía – restaurant.
📱 Stay connected: an Airalo eSIM for Costa Rica works as soon as you land, so you can skip the SIM card hassle.
Practical tips for Arenal and Monteverde
- How many days? 3 nights in La Fortuna and 3 nights in Monteverde.
- Clothing: La Fortuna is warm (up to 88°F), Monteverde is cool. Bring a sweater.
- Transportation: by car is easiest around Arenal and Monteverde. The roads to Monteverde are winding.
- Sleeping: expect to wake up early in Arenal and Monteverde. Howler monkeys at 4 am and birds that whistle all night.
- Budget: in Arenal and Monteverde alike, choose sodas for lunch: they are cheap and tasty.
👉 More tours in La Fortuna:
Frequently asked questions about Arenal and Monteverde
Arenal has no longer been really active since 2010. You can safely stay in the area and enjoy the view.
Yes, it is one of the highlights of the region. Be prepared for 530 steps down and back up again, and for ice-cold water.
About 3.5 hours. As the crow flies it’s only 15 miles, but because of the lake and the mountains you drive almost 62 miles.
Visit the Santa Elena cloud forest, do a coffee and chocolate tour, spot hummingbirds at the Hummingbird Café and see the special Ficus La Raíz tree.
After Arenal and Monteverde on to the Pacific coast
After Arenal and the Monteverde cloud forest it’s time for beaches, surfing and sunsets. Continue reading in part 3: the Pacific coast of Costa Rica or go back to the complete Costa Rica itinerary. Less time? Then check our route for Costa Rica in 2 weeks. Curious where to see which animals? Also read our guide to spotting wildlife in Costa Rica.
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